Sunday, November 1, 2015

Victorian Mourning Gown Bodice

The bodice was relatively simple and was fairly straight forward, thankfully the Truly Victorian Pattern was easy to work with.  I made a quick mock up and discovered the the neckline had to be lowered and the collar redrafted. However the rest of the bodice fit really well and went together fairly easily.  The only hard part is the beautiful pleats that make the tails in the bit were a bit difficult to set, but so worth it.  The bodice is fully boned on the seam lines and on the darts and has a waist tape to keep the back firmly pulled to my waist above the bustle. This waist tape also prevents the bodice from riding up when worn.

Once the bodice was together, I stitched a bunch of beaded trim purchased from M&J Trimming onto the bodice.  The three appliques on the back above the pleats and the one in the center back below the collar are left over from the trim on the skirt.
Bodice back
Bodice front
 A quick note on construction, I decided to flat line all the pieces and then use cotton bias tape to finish all the edges on the inside of the bodice.  This made for really really nice edges, but lots of hand sewing.  This bodice took me much longer than any other I have made, but the smooth edges were so worth it.  The only area of the bodice with an additional lining is the tails on the bodice which in addition to flat lining in cotton, have a silk lining as well in case they flip up while wearing this bodice.

Here is a good detail shot of the trim.
Finally, I made the sleeves out of some of the left over semi-sheer ruched silk used on the false underskirt.  This fabric was stretchy so I made up the sleeves and then altered them until they fit right.  I then used some of the sheer stuff left over from the skirt ruffle and made some quick ruffles for the sleeve edges.


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