I finished the cording on the regency stays. I thought I would share some pictures of the method I used to cord the stays. The cotton cording I used is pretty thick and I needed to widen the needle hole before I could pull the cotton cording into the channel. I used my corset maker's awl to widen the hole and looped the cotton cording through doubled up regular thread and a blunt needle. Here is the basic set up:
To start the cord, I poked a hole with the awl:
After
the hole was wide enough, I pulled the cording into the channel using
the needle and thread. At the far end of the channel, I pushed the
needle through until the thread came out the other side. I then used
the awl to widen the hole over the regular thread.
Finally,
I could pull the cording all the way through. I then cut off the
excess cording. Here is what a fully corded section looks like from the
inside. You can see the cording a bit at the far end where it was cut
off. The cording fully disappeared into the channels at the first
wearing.
Then
I finished boning the stays and tried them on. Here is the very sad
part, the cording and boning changed the shape so very much that they
are no longer create the correct silhouette for Regency! They are now
too curvy and it shows beneath my dresses. I think the shape would be
alright for Romantic Era dresses, but not the straight skirted Regency
styles. Since the stays had such a curvy shape to begin with, I did not
realize how much they stretched when worn due the bias cut. The cording
and added boning prevented any stretching. Now when I lace them up
there is a huge gap in the back as well. Oh well, I will need to try
and make a new pair using a different pattern soon!
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