First, here is our outfits for the first night taken before we headed down to the ball.
Sunday, September 29, 2019
Labyrinth Masquerade Ball 2019
This year I got to attend the Labyrinth Masquerade Ball in LA. This event is beyond phenomenal, the cast did an amazing job of creating multiple wonderful worlds, the entertainment was top notch and the costumes were to die for (I seriously recommend checking out the pictures on the website or facebook). The whole event felt so immersive. We opted to attend the preshow, where you tour through the space with various cast members. This was very worth it, the cast members were amazing and worked hard to orient the new people and to show you some of the unique things for the event. We also attended the tea, which was amazing in both food and unique teas designed specifically for the event. I did take at least some pictures, so here are a selection from this magical event.
First, here is our outfits for the first night taken before we headed down to the ball.
There were so many amazing costumes, I captured only a handful of them, but here are some of my favorites we got to see first hand. However, just looking at the facebook photos, we missed so many amazing costumes in the crowd! I highly recommend this event for the sheer love of costume and hope to go again some day!
First, here is our outfits for the first night taken before we headed down to the ball.
Saturday, September 7, 2019
Glinda the Good Witch; LED Skirt
Out of this whole costume the skirt took the longest simply due to the fact that I really wanted it to light up and stitching tons of LED wires by hand is really really slow.
The skirt is 2 layers, the bottom layer is smooth, pink, pearlized, sheer fabric. It is a basic A-line cut gathered into a pink elastic waist band. The simple cut let me stitch LED strings all over this base skirt. The LEDs are Flora RGB neopixels from Adafruit, these can produce full 24-bit color, are ultra-bright, can be chained together and can respond rapidly to programmed instructions. Each stand in the skirt is 8 Flora neopixels strung together with clear wire and there are 8 strands. You can use conductive threads for these, but the loss in conductivity over the length of the skirt would be too much, so for this size project, I used wire. Once wired, I stitched the LED strands to the skirt. The stitching pattern was random and the strands were designed to have different spacing between the LEDs to make it a little more organic looking.
The wiring all runs to a pouch under the bustled overskirt which is high enough that I don't sit on it, but low enough that it is not under the corset. The Arduino controller and the LiPo batteries are held in this pouch.
The overskirt is much fuller than the underskirt and is made of crinkled, pink, pearlized, sheer fabric. The overskirt is floor length in the front and slightly longer in the back to allow the skirt to be bustled slightly by tapes in the back (you can see 2 of the white ribbon tapes for the bustle in the pouch photo). The ruffle at the bottom of the skirt goes all the way around the skirt. To the front of the skirt, I cut out gear shapes in random shiny fabrics I had laying around. These fabrics were gifted to me and were 1/8 yard strips in 16 colors, I used all the pink tones for this skirt. These two fabrics (the pearlized sheer and the slippery shiny stuff) were horrible to sew and every attempt I had to applique this stuff failed, so the gears are glued on with fabric glue.
To the back, I added a couple of elements to enhance the bustle, these were based on 1860s fashions were you start to see extra stuff down the back, but the skirts still have fairly round hoop support. The added bits are pretty free form, there are several layers of basically quarter circles with trim added to the back.
The arduino in the skirt allows the LEDs to have several programs that the skirt cycles through every 30 seconds. The first is a red raindrop effect, the second one is a blue snow shower effect and the last one is a rainbow blinking effect.
In case the videos aren't working, here is a quick picture of pattern 3.
The skirt is 2 layers, the bottom layer is smooth, pink, pearlized, sheer fabric. It is a basic A-line cut gathered into a pink elastic waist band. The simple cut let me stitch LED strings all over this base skirt. The LEDs are Flora RGB neopixels from Adafruit, these can produce full 24-bit color, are ultra-bright, can be chained together and can respond rapidly to programmed instructions. Each stand in the skirt is 8 Flora neopixels strung together with clear wire and there are 8 strands. You can use conductive threads for these, but the loss in conductivity over the length of the skirt would be too much, so for this size project, I used wire. Once wired, I stitched the LED strands to the skirt. The stitching pattern was random and the strands were designed to have different spacing between the LEDs to make it a little more organic looking.
The wiring all runs to a pouch under the bustled overskirt which is high enough that I don't sit on it, but low enough that it is not under the corset. The Arduino controller and the LiPo batteries are held in this pouch.
The overskirt is much fuller than the underskirt and is made of crinkled, pink, pearlized, sheer fabric. The overskirt is floor length in the front and slightly longer in the back to allow the skirt to be bustled slightly by tapes in the back (you can see 2 of the white ribbon tapes for the bustle in the pouch photo). The ruffle at the bottom of the skirt goes all the way around the skirt. To the front of the skirt, I cut out gear shapes in random shiny fabrics I had laying around. These fabrics were gifted to me and were 1/8 yard strips in 16 colors, I used all the pink tones for this skirt. These two fabrics (the pearlized sheer and the slippery shiny stuff) were horrible to sew and every attempt I had to applique this stuff failed, so the gears are glued on with fabric glue.
To the back, I added a couple of elements to enhance the bustle, these were based on 1860s fashions were you start to see extra stuff down the back, but the skirts still have fairly round hoop support. The added bits are pretty free form, there are several layers of basically quarter circles with trim added to the back.
The arduino in the skirt allows the LEDs to have several programs that the skirt cycles through every 30 seconds. The first is a red raindrop effect, the second one is a blue snow shower effect and the last one is a rainbow blinking effect.
Monday, September 2, 2019
Steampunk Glinda the Good Witch: corset
Normally I prefer to make my own corsets, since they always fit better if they are made specifically to your measurements and bespoke corsets out of my price range. However, for this outfit, I needed to get the corset done quickly and did not have a pattern than fit the bill. So I bought one cheaply from Corset Story. Their waist taming corset line allows a 5 inch reduction and are reasonably comfortable. The one I bought was a white satin one intended for weddings, but I really wanted pink.
The corset satin is polyester, but with the new Idye poly dyes I figured I could get at least a light pink from the white satin. I did not have a pot big enough to keep the heat high (as per the dye instructions) so I boiled the dye and then poured it into a plastic tub and dropped the corset into the heated dye. Since the corset would not be in hot dye for the required time, I bought fuschia dye and hoped for the best. I then swished the corset in the dye until it cooled (about 10 minutes) and rinsed it out with cold water. The inside of the corset was cotton and turned the same fuschia as advertised. The outside of the corset turned a pale pink, basically the color of my pointe shoes as a girl. The corset lace did not dye at all evenly, so I bought gross grain ribbon and replaced the lacing. Interestingly, the corset is pretty color fast. I have worn this corset and danced in it for several hours and it doesn't transfer on to me or onto my white corset liner.
Once the corset was dyed, I stitched gears all over it and then attacked the corset with rhinestones for bling and little pink skull studs. I decided to use hot fix stones, which do not recommend...... For one, any small slip with the heated tool melted the polyester satin and there are several burn marks from this. Second, not all of the stones adhered well, so I have to re-glue some of the stones periodically. Third, the tool would periodically get too hot and I would have to stop to cool it down or risk burning my fingers just holding the tool. Use of E6000 like on the crown would have been better.
However, I am happy with the shiny results.
The corset satin is polyester, but with the new Idye poly dyes I figured I could get at least a light pink from the white satin. I did not have a pot big enough to keep the heat high (as per the dye instructions) so I boiled the dye and then poured it into a plastic tub and dropped the corset into the heated dye. Since the corset would not be in hot dye for the required time, I bought fuschia dye and hoped for the best. I then swished the corset in the dye until it cooled (about 10 minutes) and rinsed it out with cold water. The inside of the corset was cotton and turned the same fuschia as advertised. The outside of the corset turned a pale pink, basically the color of my pointe shoes as a girl. The corset lace did not dye at all evenly, so I bought gross grain ribbon and replaced the lacing. Interestingly, the corset is pretty color fast. I have worn this corset and danced in it for several hours and it doesn't transfer on to me or onto my white corset liner.
Once the corset was dyed, I stitched gears all over it and then attacked the corset with rhinestones for bling and little pink skull studs. I decided to use hot fix stones, which do not recommend...... For one, any small slip with the heated tool melted the polyester satin and there are several burn marks from this. Second, not all of the stones adhered well, so I have to re-glue some of the stones periodically. Third, the tool would periodically get too hot and I would have to stop to cool it down or risk burning my fingers just holding the tool. Use of E6000 like on the crown would have been better.
However, I am happy with the shiny results.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)